The airy and historic lobby area
The majestic Four Seasons Istanbul in Sultanahmet is a quiet sanctuary shouldered by the city’s historic marvels. Darius Sanai checks in
Follow LUX on Instagram: @luxthemagazine
Those who have been to Istanbul, presumably including the original Byzantine and Islamic conquerors, will have noted that, despite its many undoubted wonders and thrills, this is not an easy city to navigate. The modern city, in any case, sprawls on two sides of what is basically a sea, and each side itself is split into distinct and distant areas of interest. A fascinating city it certainly is, a walkable one it is not.
Which is why it was such a pleasure, privilege and surprise to stay at the Four Seasons Hotel, Istanbul at Sultanahmet. Slightly unbelievably, this hotel is situated in a palatial building literally next door to the celebrated Hagia Sophia mosque (until 700 years ago a Byzantine church), the Blue Mosque and Topkapi Palace, the three greatest and most unmissable sights in what was once Constantinople. This is, in fact, the only truly walkable area of Istanbul. It is so close to these landmarks that you could easily zip wire into any of them, although the security officers patrolling the area would probably have something to say about that.
The palatial exterior of the Four Seasons Hotel, Istanbul at Sultanahmet
Arriving at the Four Seasons Sultanahmet from the hub of the city is an utterly tranquil experience. It is a boutique hotel, and you are greeted by your personal receptionist and taken up to your suite to sign in, via a delicate garden courtyard with plenty of shelter from the summer sun. Our suite had views over the courtyard to the tops of a few historic buildings nearby. There was not a sound apart from the birds.
Read more: A trip to D Maris Bay
The interiors of this palazzo (part of it was once a prison, although you would never guess) are artfully done, with clusters of paintings and prints along the corridors. It feels as if you are in the home of an aristocrat. Downstairs, the spa is probably the most pleasant luxury hammam experience in the world. A hammam, an old Turkish experience combining elements of Roman spa baths and much else, is always an invigorating experience but not always a luxurious one. Here, it is both, as you have your own wet solarium to yourself where you lie on a warm marble bed and are scrubbed, washed, exfoliated and splashed by your hammamiste. Much more involving and, we thought, relaxing than any regular spa experience.
The hotel’s bi-level Beyzade suite
The restaurant, Avlu, is delightfully located in a pavilion in the courtyard, sheltered in summer and warm in winter. The Tarhana soup and Topkapi chicken were highlights of the modern Anatolian menu. On the following night, just as enjoyable, in the boutique-like bar area elevated slightly above the courtyard, we experienced beautiful service accompanied by the find of our stay – a dry, focused Turkish sparkling rosé wine from the Ankara region, which we felt was more than a match for any rosé Crémant, and more interesting to boot.
Read more: A sojourn in Egypt
In our minds, the Four Seasons Sultanahmet (there is another, bigger Istanbul Four Seasons on the city’s main waterfront, with more facilities including a swimming pool) is a city resort with a distinctly peaceful, holiday air. Unlike some city resort hotels, it is not trying to be a business hotel for some and a leisure hotel for others. It is a place where you can go to get away from it all, right in the middle of the oldest part of Istanbul, with city walls, and a few paces from three of the world’s most historic wonders.
Recent Comments