The back of a metal watch
The back of a metal watch

Every watch collector knows you can’t just walk into a luxury boutique and expect to buy an in-demand timepiece, any more than you can walk into a gallery and pick up the latest Richard Prince. The space between demand and supply can be acute, and some watches acquire a status beyond value or taste. Here are six of the best compiled by James Gurney

 

A metal watch with a red face

An icon returns: Demand for Zenith’s heritage re-issues such as this Defy Revival is intense. It’s easy to see why. The faceted octagonal case and 14-sided bezel combined with the steel ladder bracelet, gives the £6,100 Defy a character as unique today as it was radical at its 1969 launch.

zenith-watches.com

A black watch with a tech style silver face

Go faster: If ever a watchmaker could adopt the ad slogan “reassuringly expensive”, it is motor-racing favourite Richard Mille. The 1.75mm RM UP-01 Ferrari, created with Ferrari, is the thinnest watch ever designed. All 150 watches to be made are reportedly reserved, at £1.88m.

richard-mille.com

a blue watch with a blue face and strap

Blue blood: François-Paul Journe set up as a watchmaker nearly 25 years ago, after restoring antique clocks. That tradition, combined with a modern aesthetic, has collectors content to wait for years, even for the simplest creations such as the Chronomètre Bleu, which retails for just under $40K, but resells for upwards of $50K.

fpjourne.com

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A blue strap watch with a silver face with a hint of blue

What is the world: Greubel Forsey raises watchmaking to an art form by preserving and reviving craft skills. That the brand is looking to bring prices down to below £200,000 (the covetable GMT Balancier Convexe is around $400,000) and reduce waiting times to under two years tells you all about demand.

greubelforsey.com

A silver metal watch with three black dots in the face

Classic cool: The value of the most sought-after vintage Rolex watches can reach absurd extremes. With others, such as the 1971 pandadial Daytona, the perfection of the design was enough to justify an estimate of up to €500,000 euros at Sotheby’s March 2023 Fine Watches sale.

rolex.com

A silver watch with a blue square face

Dreaming on: Demand for key Patek Philippe designs exceeds supply, reaches fever pitch for Nautilus variations and is beyond reason ($6.5m in 2021) for the Tiffany blue-dialled 5711/1A-018. For a white gold 5811/1G (£58,391), you might have a chance in a few generations.

patek.com

This article was first published in the Spring/Summer 2023 issue of LUX

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yellow sportscar manufacturing process in workshop with engineer working on engine
still life image of Richard Mille watch with black strap and large rectangular face

The RM 11-03 McLaren watch

It costs as much as a McLaren 570S and will turn just as many heads. We love the RM 11-03 McLaren Automatic Flyback Chronograph with a desire that is almost unhinged – this is why you will too. 

1. It feels like a supercar.

Unlike many high-end watch-car collaborations, where a motoring logo is stuck onto what is basically an existing watch design, the 11-03 was designed jointly by McLaren Design Director Rob Melville and Richard Mille Engineer Fabrice Namura. It uses the same materials and coatings used by the British high-performance car brand, and while big, is incredibly light.

2. It looks fabulous.

Collaborative watches can be hit and miss; at worst, a mish-mash of two completely different design philosophies. The 11-03 is actually beautiful, a tough achievement for a big watch.

yellow sportscar manufacturing process in workshop with engineer working on engine

The production facility at McLaren in the UK

3. You’ll not see anyone else wearing one.

Only 500 are being made, worldwide, and the first ones are only available to McLaren Ultimate Series clients; afterwards, they’ll be available at Richard Mille stores.

4. It’s not a Patek Philippe.

If you buy one of these, you’re likely to have at least a couple of Pateks as well, just as a McLaren P1 owner is likely also to have a few Ferraris. But, just like buying a P1, or an F1, purchasing a 11-03 shows a certain breezy panache and originality.

detail photograph of watch manufacturing process

The manufacture of the RM 11-03 McLaren watch case

5. It’s wearable.

You may have a platinum dress watch also costing as much as a high-end sports car, and you’ll wear that a couple of times a year under a dinner jacket, for fear of scratching or bashing it. The 11-03 is not just lightweight; it’s made with hi-tech materials like top-grade titanium, and you can wear it to play tennis, fish on your boat or hike in Alaska. And it’ll be fine.

6. It’s beautiful.

Did we say that already? But it just is.

For more information visit: richardmille.com

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