1 CHEWTON GLEN, Hampshire

How to update a legendary country hotel for the modern era of ripped skinny jeans? It’s a question Chewton Glen, doyen of British retreats, has asked itself ever since the rise of the ‘Babington Brigade’ of trendy country hotels, and it seems to have the answer just right. When we arrived, we were greeted impeccably by a beautifully-mannered young gentleman, and swept straight up to our suite. Downstairs, the restaurant has loosened its tie without ditching it for a T-shirt, and the food - dressed Cornish crab, wild halibut with salsify - was pure and focussed; the wine list is still magnificent. The spa, with its 18-metre pool, now features ‘beyond Organic’ treatments and service from the lady at the cafe was as wonderful as ever.

SLEEPING QUARTERS: Modern, mirrored furniture sat easily with the muted greens and greys of the suite; the bathroom was six-star; and the view over the woods was unchanged.
COULD DO BETTER: The red-carpeted corridors now need the magic wand treatment.

chewtonglen.com

LUX RATING: 18.5/20

2 MANDARIN ORIENTAL, New York

The MO New York was the cornerstone of the development at Columbus Circle, on the southwest corner of Central Park, when it opened five years ago. I popped back to see how it was doing. And I can vouch that the views are still unforgettable: my bedroom looked down from 43 floors up, across Central Park at the range of skyscrapers that is midtown, meaning the most scenic room service burger in the world (the wagyu beef was pretty good too). Even the pool, on Floor 32, has dizzying views across the Hudson river. Then there’s the bar - Mandarin do great bars, with a kind of slick, Orient-meets-Manhattan feel - and the now famous pan-Asian restaurant, Asiate, with even better views and the kind of simple brilliance of cuisine that I love. And did I mention the spa with its couples suite?

SLEEPING QUARTERS: Apart from the giant picture window, my room was all luxury plushness, with China-chic furnishings and marble everywhere in the bathroom.
COULD DO BETTER: As ever in Manhattan, the bedrooms aren’t the world’s biggest.

mandarinoriental.com

LUX RATING: 19/20

3 SUVRETTA HOUSE, St Moritz

Everyone knows St Mo is back in vogue these days, but not enough people know that, by staying in the centre of town, they’re missing out on an altogether more restful experience. The grand old family-owned luxury hotel of Suvretta House is five minutes down the road, overlooking its own valley, with just forest and mountain as far as the eye can see. Views aside, I loved its big indoor swimming pool and sports centre; this is a Swiss hotel built to an American scale. There’s a ski school next door, and while the hotel restaurant is formal, the owners also own the rustic chic Chasselas restaurant just up the mountain, where I had delicious air-dried local beef by day, and a rather sophisticated pasta with mushrooms and things (I can’t read my notes - too much gluhwein) in the evening.

SLEEPING QUARTERS: The room was traditional Swiss-luxe: no contemporary styling here. Muted colours, lots of wood, super-comfortable bed, and a sweeping view over the valley.
COULD DO BETTER: It’s just a teensy, tiny bit oldfashioned.

suvrettahouse.ch

LUX RATING: 17.5/20